Behind the Lens at the Beijing Olympics

Reflecting on Beijing 2008

I’ve been back in the US for about four days now, and believe it or not -- I’m beginning to miss China. The politics, lifestyle, even the food I can live without, but the people -- I miss the locals most of all. There have been many questions about my experience -- from the immigration officer at the Chicago airport (it went beyond the obligatory business/pleasure question) to my family and friends back home -- I’ve answered them several times before, but I will answer them here as well.

Q: Well, how was Beijing? Should I go?

A: After spending two months living in Beijing, I’d hesitate to recommend the city to tourists looking to soak up Chinese history and culture. Sure -- there’s plenty of that in Beijing, but there’s so much more to China that you won’t be able to see through Beijing’s environmental and propaganda haze. I came to tolerate life in the city towards the end of my journey, but only because the Olympics were in town, and many familiar Western conveniences became available, such as an Apple Store and Cold Stone. Unless you speak Mandarin, communication with locals is almost always impossible. Some are learning limited English, but are unable to pronounce words correctly due to a lack of native speakers to practice with.

For photographers, Beijing can be a great place to shoot on clear days, but unfortunately, the sun only breaks through the clouds every so often. If you’re only in town for a week, you may not have a single day without a hazy blanket to get in the way of you and that perfect shot. The Chinese make incredible subjects, and are generally more open to photographers than Westerners. Unfortunately, I think much of this comes from a fear of confrontation, especially when they’re unable to communicate with the foreigner behind the camera.

Q: What was it like to work at the Olympics?

A: I can’t even begin to describe the Olympic experience – it was so incredible to be able to work alongside the world’s top photographers, reporters, and athletes. Just being around the athletes was a thrill – there were so many, from almost every country in the world. There were also plenty of opportunities for staff and journalists to mingle with athletes outside of the competition venues, especially towards the end of the Games.

I had a fantastic time working at the Olympics, and would do it again in a heartbeat. I’ve never been around people from so many diverse cultures at one time, and I really enjoyed watching how each responded to life in Beijing differently. The athletes and journalists rarely left the Olympic venues to explore the city, but when they did, I was more than happy to act as their guide.

During the first week of competition, I answered questions for photographers at the road cycling course (and ended up doing quite a bit of computer troubleshooting as well). A few days after road cycling, I transferred to indoor volleyball, where I worked as a flash quotes reporter, interviewing athletes in the mixed zone alongside reporters from around the world. Often, we had to work through translators -- it was really an experience unlike any other.

Q: Can I work at Vancouver 2010 or London 2012?

A: Honestly, I’m not quite sure. The International Olympic Committee (IOC) required the Beijing Organizing Committee (BOCOG) to hire native English speakers from overseas only because very few were qualified in China. Fortunately for the next Winter and Summer Games, that’s not the case -- both will be held in countries where English is the official language. If you’re an expert with relevant experience, feel free to contact VANOC or LOCOG for more information about joining their staffs during the Games. I’d certainly recommend giving it a shot -- working at the Olympics is an experience like no other.

I have a few regrets about my experience in China. Some are less significant, and were only realized when I read the United Airlines magazine on the flight back to the States. I can’t believe I spent two months in Beijing and only visited half of the locations they suggested in their cover article. I never made it to the restaurant, Made in China, but I certainly heard great things. My biggest regret, however, is not taking more time to travel around the country. I visited Shanghai and Tianjin, and made a side trip to the suburbs with Vincent Laforet, but I really wish I had taken more time in the beginning of my trip to explore other parts of the country. Some friends flew to see pandas in their native habitat near Chengdu, or visited the Terracotta Army at Xi’an. I’d love to visit China again at some point in the near future -- but I don’t think Beijing will make it on my itinerary.

This marks my final post to Behind the Lens at the Beijing Olympics. Thanks for visiting, and feel free to continue sending questions or adding your comments to individual posts.

Blog Featured on Inside Digital Photo

I was interviewed by Inside Digital Photo’s Scott Sheppard earlier this month, and noticed that the radio show is now available online. Head over to IDP’s website to hear Scott and I chat about photography in Beijing and China’s preparation for the Olympics. Some of the topics we discussed, such as banned cameras at Olympic venues, have since been updated on this blog -- but the 10-minute segment is worth a listen nonetheless.

Killer Beijing Photo Blogs

I spent my first five weeks in Beijing as a lone wolf, without a single other photo-related Olympics blog on the web. But with hundreds of web savvy photogs in town for the Games, there are some incredible new photography blogs out there -- some provide an inside look at Olympics photography, while others show the China you won’t see on NBC.

Kevin German hosts one of the best Beijing photo blogs, and he doesn’t even have an Olympics credential. Posts to “Wandering Light” date back well before Kevin’s arrival in Beijing, but the Vietnam-based freelance photographer came to spend the month of August in the Chinese capital, exploring a new part of the city each day. I wasn’t familiar with Kevin’s work before he came to Beijing, but this is one photographer that has earned a permanent home on my blogroll.

Photo by Kevin German.

I’ve been following Vincent Laforet’s work for the last few years, and his Beijing Olympics photography doesn’t disappoint. Vince has the ability to see potential photographs that most would overlook, which combined with technical perfection, enables him to capture jaw-dropping images. The New York-based freelance photographer is on contract with the New York Times, but is representing Newsweek while in Beijing.

Eric Seals is new to the Olympics game, but his work with the Detroit Free Press has taken him on several overseas assignments, including a stint covering the war in Iraq. Yesterday afternoon, I had an opportunity to spend a few hours showing Eric the city, shopping at various knockoff markets and trying some Beijing street food. To my surprise, he’s as good at bargaining for souvenirs as he is at shooting Michael Phelps win gold.

Stay tuned for more featured Beijing Olympics blogs, and check out our blogroll to the left, or post a comment if you discover an Olympics blog that you’d like to share. Please limit posts to blogs related to the Olympics -- links to other blogs and websites will be removed.

CNN Report: Hotels To Monitor Internet Use

With a little over a week until Opening Ceremony, the spotlight on Beijing is shining brighter than ever. I’ve been cautious on the Web, only posting to this blog through a secure Virtual Private Network (VPN) connection with an IP address in the States. Was it overkill? Apparently not. A CNN article recently confirmed my fears -- that without an encrypted connection, it’s very likely that someone could be watching my every move. According to U.S. Senator Sam Brownback, the government has ordered hotels to spy on their guests, subjecting them to “invasive intelligence gathering”. This report has not yet been independently confirmed.

If you’re traveling to China with sensitive information on your computer, it would be best not to connect your personal computer to the Internet at all. If that’s not an option, only surf the Web through a secure VPN connection. If you don’t have access to a corporate VPN, I’d suggest signing up for a personalVPN from WiTopia before you go to China. Another advantage of using a VPN to surf the Web -- the Great Firewall of China falls down in your own little bubble.

As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, access to this blog, among others, is blocked from within China. If you’re setting up a personal blog before your trip, consider using Blogger.com, which as of now is accessible from Beijing. If you wish to view our Beijing Blog from within China, you’ll need to connect using a VPN or through web-based proxy such as PHProxy. Note that while you can use proxy websites to visit other blocked pages as well, I’m only providing this information so you can access the content on our Beijing Blog. You may also wish to print out relevant posts before you leave for Beijing, so you have a hard copy with you at all times. You’ll find it difficult to make printouts in China, as hotel business centers will often only allow you to print from their own computers.

Thanks for the heads up, Eric and Kyle.

Blog Featured on SportsShooter.com

I wrote a column for the July issue of the Sports Shooter newsletter, titled “Squatty Potties to Blank Stares - On The Ground in Beijing”. SportsShooter.com is an online community for professional sports photographers, so the column focused on posts that would be of interest to photographers coming to cover the Olympics. I also go into further detail about some of the topics we’ve covered here, so if you’re headed to Beijing, please be sure to check it out. The newsletter also includes a video about packing for the Olympics by Sports Shooter founder Robert Hanashiro, some tips from Beijinger David McIntyre, and Beijing Olympics Predictions from photographers heading to Beijing to cover the Games.

Before You Leave Home

There are some things you simply won’t be able to do from Beijing. Many personal hygiene items are especially hard to come by here, so be sure to pack plenty before you leave home.

1. Unlock your cell phone -- Sure, you can buy a mobile phone once you get to Beijing, but if you already use a GSM phone in the States, call your wireless provider and ask for an unlock code to use your phone with a China Mobile SIM card. While you have them on the line, be sure to ask if your model is GSM-900 compatible.

2. Visit your doctor -- If you take prescription medication, carry your pills in a bottle with your prescription clearly marked. Expect to get sick at least once, so ask your doctor what he or she recommends for dealing with stomach issues.

3. Bring a copy of your eyeglass prescription -- I dropped $300 on a backup pair of glasses before leaving home, only to find a similar pair here for about $15. I bought a pair of glasses and a pair of prescription sunglasses for 110 CNY each at the Silk Market. Some of my colleagues have had issues with the smog, so eye drops may also come in handy.

4. Load up on deodorant -- We take it for granted in the States, but deodorant simply isn’t available for purchase here. With hot weather and long workdays, you’ll be glad you remembered to pack some.

5. Pack some Purell -- Almost as important as deodorant, I reach for my hand sanitizer several times daily -- It’s especially handy when you want to munch on tasty street food and there isn’t a sink in sight. Grab plenty of the pocket sized and larger containers, and pack extras for friends.

6. Bring plenty of business cards -- They’re very important in China, and if you haven’t done so already, have your cards printed in both English and Chinese. Many Chinese don’t read or speak a lick of English, so your cards will be useless if not also written in Chinese.

7. Buy a Slingbox -- These clever contraptions broadcast your cable television signal to your computer over the Internet, allowing you to watch American TV from anywhere in the world. The Slingbox Pro includes a built-in cable tuner, so there’s no need for a cable box.

8. Duplicate your passport -- Bring both hard and soft copies of your passport and visa. Be sure to snap a picture of your passport and email it to yourself before you leave, so you can prove your identity in an emergency. Also consider leaving copies with a relative so they can fax it to your hotel if necessary.

9. Don’t forget your OIAC -- If you’re coming to cover the games, pack your Olympic Identity and Accreditation Card in your carry on, and email copies to yourself as well. The card acts as your visa and is very difficult to replace if lost or left behind.

10. Buy some guidebooks -- The only guidebook I use on a daily basis is the Eyewitness Travel Beijing Pocket Map & Guide -- but I’d be lost without it. The subway and city maps are a necessity and the book is small enough to carry in my pocket. English guidebooks are very difficult to find here and will likely be out of stock once Westerners begin to invade the city.

Don't Forget the Guidebooks!

I never travel without first doing my homework. Be it a weekend getaway or several months abroad, stocking up on guidebooks and browsing the web for supplemental material is always a must. (Spending hours on TripAdvisor before, during, and after a trip is also an obsession of mine.) My trip to Beijing is no exception; so far I've read Insider's Guide to Beijing 2008, Fodor's China, Lonely Planet Beijing, and Zagat Beijing. I'm bringing along an Eyewitness Pocket Map & Guide as well so I always have something, well, in my pocket.

Though not as relevant in 2008, I'm also working my way through China Today: Sin or Virtue? -- written in 1978 by my grandfather, Albert Honig, after returning from several weeks in China. A psychiatrist, known around the world at the time for his experimental treatments, he was among the first Americans to visit post-Mao China.

Without this blog as a resource, I had no choice but to turn to other authors for my pre-journey fix. Even with the information you'll find here in the coming weeks, it's still a good idea to bring a guidebook or two.

With its list of 228 restaurants ranging from "spectacular Peking duck" at Beijing Da Dong to "surprisingly authentic" Mexican at El Fogoncito, I recommend picking up a copy of Zagat Beijing before leaving home. I definitely plan on using it to guide me to my first few culinary experiences.