Behind the Lens at the Beijing Olympics

Reflecting on Beijing 2008

I’ve been back in the US for about four days now, and believe it or not -- I’m beginning to miss China. The politics, lifestyle, even the food I can live without, but the people -- I miss the locals most of all. There have been many questions about my experience -- from the immigration officer at the Chicago airport (it went beyond the obligatory business/pleasure question) to my family and friends back home -- I’ve answered them several times before, but I will answer them here as well.

Q: Well, how was Beijing? Should I go?

A: After spending two months living in Beijing, I’d hesitate to recommend the city to tourists looking to soak up Chinese history and culture. Sure -- there’s plenty of that in Beijing, but there’s so much more to China that you won’t be able to see through Beijing’s environmental and propaganda haze. I came to tolerate life in the city towards the end of my journey, but only because the Olympics were in town, and many familiar Western conveniences became available, such as an Apple Store and Cold Stone. Unless you speak Mandarin, communication with locals is almost always impossible. Some are learning limited English, but are unable to pronounce words correctly due to a lack of native speakers to practice with.

For photographers, Beijing can be a great place to shoot on clear days, but unfortunately, the sun only breaks through the clouds every so often. If you’re only in town for a week, you may not have a single day without a hazy blanket to get in the way of you and that perfect shot. The Chinese make incredible subjects, and are generally more open to photographers than Westerners. Unfortunately, I think much of this comes from a fear of confrontation, especially when they’re unable to communicate with the foreigner behind the camera.

Q: What was it like to work at the Olympics?

A: I can’t even begin to describe the Olympic experience – it was so incredible to be able to work alongside the world’s top photographers, reporters, and athletes. Just being around the athletes was a thrill – there were so many, from almost every country in the world. There were also plenty of opportunities for staff and journalists to mingle with athletes outside of the competition venues, especially towards the end of the Games.

I had a fantastic time working at the Olympics, and would do it again in a heartbeat. I’ve never been around people from so many diverse cultures at one time, and I really enjoyed watching how each responded to life in Beijing differently. The athletes and journalists rarely left the Olympic venues to explore the city, but when they did, I was more than happy to act as their guide.

During the first week of competition, I answered questions for photographers at the road cycling course (and ended up doing quite a bit of computer troubleshooting as well). A few days after road cycling, I transferred to indoor volleyball, where I worked as a flash quotes reporter, interviewing athletes in the mixed zone alongside reporters from around the world. Often, we had to work through translators -- it was really an experience unlike any other.

Q: Can I work at Vancouver 2010 or London 2012?

A: Honestly, I’m not quite sure. The International Olympic Committee (IOC) required the Beijing Organizing Committee (BOCOG) to hire native English speakers from overseas only because very few were qualified in China. Fortunately for the next Winter and Summer Games, that’s not the case -- both will be held in countries where English is the official language. If you’re an expert with relevant experience, feel free to contact VANOC or LOCOG for more information about joining their staffs during the Games. I’d certainly recommend giving it a shot -- working at the Olympics is an experience like no other.

I have a few regrets about my experience in China. Some are less significant, and were only realized when I read the United Airlines magazine on the flight back to the States. I can’t believe I spent two months in Beijing and only visited half of the locations they suggested in their cover article. I never made it to the restaurant, Made in China, but I certainly heard great things. My biggest regret, however, is not taking more time to travel around the country. I visited Shanghai and Tianjin, and made a side trip to the suburbs with Vincent Laforet, but I really wish I had taken more time in the beginning of my trip to explore other parts of the country. Some friends flew to see pandas in their native habitat near Chengdu, or visited the Terracotta Army at Xi’an. I’d love to visit China again at some point in the near future -- but I don’t think Beijing will make it on my itinerary.

This marks my final post to Behind the Lens at the Beijing Olympics. Thanks for visiting, and feel free to continue sending questions or adding your comments to individual posts.

Have Some Free Time?

Most of the photographers I’ve met have been shooting back-to-back events every day since the Games began almost two weeks ago. Rising early and working late into the evening, any free time they have is spent catching up on needed sleep. There are a few exceptions, however. For photographers with some downtime or those staying in Beijing until next week, here’s my top five list of things to do and shoot in the area, far from the Olympic Green.

1. Take the train to Tianjin -- The coastal city of Tianjin is located 120 km east of Beijing, but a new high-speed train will zip you from the capital to the coast in just under 30 minutes. You’ll need at least half a day to explore, especially if you plan to shoot at the “beach.” The ocean excursion is pricey (about 160 CNY r/t including taxi and light rail), but the incredible pictures you’ll be able to make there make it well worth the time and money.

2. Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City -- Several photographers I’ve spoken to haven’t even had time to visit the world’s largest public square, or the Forbidden City. If you have a few hours free, visit both, but if you can only spare an hour or two, head to Tiananmen Square to shoot tourists and locals enjoying the recently constructed Olympic displays.

3. Eat Chinese food -- Under immense pressure to stay healthy so they can produce images, experienced photographers are avoiding eating anything outside of the media village, Main Press Center, or Olympic venues. While this makes sense, they’re really missing out on some incredible Chinese food. Peking duck roll ups (available for 15 Yuan at the MPC) aren’t going to cut it -- experience the real thing at Quanjude, or visit a hole in the wall eatery to enjoy Chinese food at its best (and cheapest).

4. Wander the city on your own -- Escape the Olympics bubble to meet locals in the hutongs, or roam the streets with a camera in the older parts of town. Don’t worry about having a plan -- take the subway away from the Olympic Green, and get off at a random stop. If you don’t like what you see, simply hop back on and go somewhere else -- you’ll also be able to make great pictures on the train.

5. Bring back some goodies -- You can’t return from China without gifts for family and friends, so visit one of the city’s markets to bargain hard for souvenirs. Jade and pearls are very popular, as are calligraphy paintings, chopstick sets, and knock off clothing. Visit the Pearl Marketfor pearls (and sometimes jade) and the Tianya market (literally a few feet away) for everything else. Tianya is also a great place to shoot locals gathered around televisions to watch the Olympics.

Day Trip: Tianjin by Train

A new high-speed train opened this month, linking Beijing with the coastal city of Tianjin. With a top speed of 350 km/h, the 120 km journey was cut from 70 minutes to just under 30. But a day in Tianjin will require far more than an hour of travel time, as the newly constructed train stations that serve the Beijing/Tianjin route are far from major attractions in either city.

Last night marked the end of Olympic football events at Tianjin stadium, but a visit to the Pacific coastline or seafood restaurants can still justify a day trip. Photographer Kevin German and I made our way to the city yesterday afternoon. The coastline, although far from attractive, is a great place to visit for photographers wanting to escape the tourist traps of Beijing in search of a more authentic Chinese experience. Locals travel to the coast, accessible only by car, to enjoy a day by the sea -- but sand and clear waters are nowhere to be found.

The waterfront is lined with litter, and the water is a light shade of brown -- but the Chinese I saw were still having a good time, swimming in the arguably unsafe water and riding on small boats.

There was also plenty of patriotism along the coast, with cars and flagpoles alike bearing the Chinese flag.

Our 30-minute trip to the shore at Haibin Avenue cost 150-Yuan roundtrip (about $22) from the Tanggu light rail station -- about 45 minutes from the city center. The cost of the 15-minute trip from the train station to the light rail was 20 Yuan (about $3). Our Tianjin excursion was motivated by an opportunity to see the Chinese women’s football team play Japan, but I mixed up the venues -- the Chinese team did play last night, but in Qinhuangdao, another coastal city near Beijing. Instead, we watched Brazil beat Norway, in a venue filled to a generously estimated 40% capacity.

We had a great day in the city -- and witnessed one of the highlights just before our return trip to Beijing. Hundreds of locals packed the brand new Tianjin train station, sitting on the floor with their eyes glued to two huge television screens as they watched China vs. USA women’s volleyball. Even as the final trains of the evening began to board, the spectators didn’t budge -- they were there only to watch the competition, with no plans to travel.

A Long Weekend in Shanghai

After several weeks in Beijing, I was ready for a change of scenery. Some friends and I decided to take the Z5 overnight train for a few days in China’s largest city. There are about a dozen overnight trains serving the Beijing to Shanghai route, but for 499 CNY (about $73), the Z trains provide direct service and a soft sleeper bed that was surprisingly more comfortable than the bed in my hotel. The train itself is luxurious, and offers four full-length beds in each room, a dining car serving Chinese food and a variety of drinks at reasonable prices, and most importantly -- peace and quiet for the 11.5-hour ride.

Like Beijing, Shanghai is plagued with hazy smog, making it difficult or even impossible to see from one end to the other of this metropolis of 18.5 million. Much of the city is ultra-modern (the famous Pudong skyline was almost nonexistent 15 years ago), and offers all of the conveniences of home without leaving China. If you want to spend your off days touring temples and other historic sites, you may want to save Shanghai for another time, but if you need to escape the hustle and bustle of Beijing, a couple days in the “New York of China” should do the trick.

If you decide to visit, stay in Puxi, on the older side of the Huangpu River. My friends and I are staying in a three-bedroom apartment near the Jing’an Temple -- the location is great, and at 780 CNY per night (about $115) for the entire apartment, the price cannot be beat. Our host, Salo Homes, can also arrange a tour guide (300 CNY per day) and Chinese cooking lessons in your own kitchen (four-hour lessons cost 150 CNY plus ingredients).

Pudong, Shanghai’s modern business district, is definitely worth a visit. While pricey at 150 CNY, a visit to the top of Shanghai’s famous Oriental Pearl Tower will provide a spectacular view from 1148 feet off the ground, even if somewhat limited by the city’s dense smog. This is the best way to get an idea of the city’s enormity -- hundreds if not thousands of colossal buildings seem to continue on for miles in all directions.

Because Shanghai is the international business capital of China, far more Chinese speak English, including taxi drivers, so finding your way around can be much easier than in Beijing. Round off your day with a Japanese Teppanyaki dinner (all you can eat and drink) and a drink in the world’s highest bar (at the Grand Hyatt in Pudong).

A note on the photos: smog is just as much of a problem in Shanghai as it is in Beijing, but after applying auto levels in Photoshop, added contrast causes images of the skyline to inaccurately represent the dense air.

Side Trips: Do Your Research

I love China and the people here, but I feel like Westerners are often taken advantage of, and it’s beginning to rub me the wrong way. Sure there are the “Foreigner” and “Chinese” prices at the markets and some restaurants, and the occasional flat out lie about the quality of goods or people’s intentions, but my visit a few days ago to a “traditional Chinese village” pushed me over the edge. I had a few days to get excited about my trip, organized by a Beijing tour company, and hoped to talk to and photograph villagers in a quaint, suburban Chinese village. My first clue that I was about to enter the Disneyland of Chinese villages was a large blue sign (such as the one below) identifying the complex as the “Reception Village of Olympic Country Tour,” followed by a small parade of well-dressed men with golf carts and walkie talkies.

The village we visited was called Xiangtang, and came complete with its own very colorful 18-page brochure, with information about the village and its many Western conveniences including an 18-hole golf course and five-star hotel. I was almost ready for the timeshare pitch to begin -- there was nothing traditional about Xiangtang. The complex’s residents stood outside their homes to greet us, providing tours to whomever wished to enter. While they appeared traditional from the exterior, each home included an identical layout, complete with enormous kitchens and dining areas, several large bathrooms, huge living rooms with seating for a dozen, and several large bedrooms -- their owners didn’t look like the golfing type.

We were then brought to a “500-year-old” Buddhist temple that appeared to still be under construction. Our guide lectured the group about the temple’s history, stating that it was built during the Ming Dynasty -- further probing revealed that it had been “reestablished” in 2002. After exiting the rear of the temple, we were greeted by a man made pond with fountains and fake stones. Cheesy amusement park music played from hidden speakers, and flowerpots were filled with fake flowers drizzled with plastic dew. As expected, I took tons of pictures during my visit to Xiangtang, but for all the wrong reasons. There are definitely some great organized tours out there, but be sure to do your research before signing up for a tour in Beijing -- and don't worry about asking too many questions -- if you don’t get the answers you want, save yourself a few hundred renminbi and spend your day doing something else.

The Summer Palace

Dating back to 1750, the Summer Palace is located in northwest Beijing. The UNESCO World Heritage site is built on Longevity Hill, alongside Kunming Lake. The manmade lake also contributes to the Palace’s status as a recreational park, with visitors renting small boats and exploring the site from the water. Boat rentals run between 40 CNY and 100 CNY depending on the size of the boat and whether or not it includes a motor, and provide riders with fantastic photo opportunities. The Summer Palace offers plenty of opportunities for photographers on foot as well, and ranks second (after the Forbidden City) on my list of top sites to visit to see Beijing’s traditional Chinese architecture. Set aside two hours if you plan to visit the Summer Palace on foot, adding another hour or two if you wish to rent a boat, as lines can be long on the weekends.

A short distance from the Summer Palace (about 15 minutes by cab), the Old Summer Palace was left in ruins after destruction by the British and French in 1860. Some of the structures that remain in the Old Summer Palace were built in European-style while the Summer Palace features Chinese-style buildings. The structure in the image below shares characteristics with the Trevi Fountain in Rome. If you’re looking to photograph traditional Chinese architecture, you only need visit the Summer Palace -- if you wish to see both, prepare to spend an additional hour touring the Old Summer Palace as well.

The Great Wall of China

Portions of the Great Wall are within an hour’s drive of Beijing city limits, but a longer drive is necessary to avoid overcrowding and excessive commercialization. Located about 70 kilometers northwest of the city, Badaling is home to one of the nearest sections of the Great Wall. Visitors will trade off bumping shoulders with tourists for convenience and safety precautions (such as handrails). If you have several days off, visit the wall on a clear, sunny day. It will be hot in summer, but the views are much more spectacular without the Beijing haze.

My group visited the Badaling today, a Saturday, so the Wall was packed with tourists. President Calderon of Mexico was also visiting the Wall while I was there, so traffic delays and security precautions added several hours to the experience. With Olympic tourists and foreign dignitaries visiting the city in August, a trip to more remote locations such as Mutianyu (90 km) or Simatai (110 km) may save time and frustration. If visiting Badaling, consider renting a taxi for the day or arranging transportation through your hotel. The Ming Tombs, also nearby, are worth visiting only if you have extra time after visiting The Forbidden City and other attractions within the city.